Quad Build Part 2

This post is quite a short one, covering the basics of the PCB (printed circuit board) based chassis plates and connecting the rotor arms to create the quadcopter’s familiar configuration.

The top and bottom members that hold the rotor arms in situ are multi-layer PCBs. This gives a combination of strength from their fibre glass construction and flexibility of electrical connectivity from the copper tracks that run between the fibre glass layers & their break out points on the chassis faces.

The main battery connector is attached to the bottom chassis plate as  shown below with the black wire soldered to the -ve pad and the red wire to the +ve pad (pretty basic stuff so far!). The beauty of the PCB chassis is that all the pads marked + are connected together, likewise those marked   . This makes connecting the main power feeds to the ESCs very simple as can be seen a little later on.

Main battery connection

As the battery connector will be routed towards the top chassis plate (when fitted) I thought it wise to add some strain relief on the soldered joints by applying a little hot melt glue.

Glue added as strain relief.

The assembled rotor arms from Part 1 are attached to the bottom plate using cap head bolts provided with the air frame kit (2 per arm) and the 2 ESC power feed wires soldered to the relevant pads on the PCB (as mentioned earlier). This leaves the orange control wire to the ESCs ready to be soldered to the FC later on. You’ll also notice I’ve numbered each arm to correspond with the diagram in Part 1 so I mount them in the correct location and use the correct rotor blade for each motor.

Rotor arms mounted to chassis.
Numbered rotor arms
ESC connections to bottom plate & orange speed control wires.

Quad Build Part 1

As I mentioned in a previous post, the core parts used for building a basic quad(copter) are minimal and pretty easy to assemble. Unfortunately, those parts tend to ship with little, or nothing, in the way of instructions … which is of particular importance when it comes to the electrics and electronics. As anyone knows, when the magic smoke escapes from a component it’ll never work again! Luckily for all concerned, the web holds a plethora of information from those who have been here before.

So to step one; basically a quad has a central platform to hold the FC (Flight Controller), battery and receiver for the radio control system. From this centre extend four rotor arms to which are affixed the motors (complete with corresponding rotor blades) and each motor’s ESC (Electronic Speed Controller).

First the motors are fixed onto the arms:

Fastening a motor to a rotor arm

Motor in situ showing power leads

So far so easy. The ESC’s have three solder pads to connect the three wires from the motor to, but nowhere does it say which wire goes to which pad!

ESC connections as supplied

Motor to ESC wiring

It turns out you can connect the wires in any order you like … honestly. The only criteria being that you need to wire all the motors the same to get them to spin in the same direction and (something that will be explained later, and which is important to drone flight) swapping over the two outer wires will make the motor spin in the opposite direction. Who’d have thunk it?    So to the other end of the ESC. There are two heavy wires (black & red) which are the power feed from the battery. The other pair take the signal from the FC and control how fast the motor spins. One of this pair (the brown) goes to ground and, as the black power cable already gives a ground connection, can be removed. That leaves a single orange wire which is soldered directly to the FC. The flight controller I purchased has no plug & socket connectors for the various components so they all have to be soldered into place.

ESC with modified wiring

Time for a brief science interlude! Most people know the theory behind how a helicopter flies: the main rotor blades spin and force air downwards, this in turn causes lift which allows the helicopter to leave the ground. As the rotor spins, the body of the helicopter has the tendency to want to rotate in the opposite direction … not a problem when on the ground as the friction between the skids, or wheels, and the ground stop the body from rotating. Once off the ground, without a tail rotor the helicopter would be totally unstable and uncontrollable. The tail rotor spins and creates a flow of air sideways to balance the helicopter body’s desire to rotate. Now consider twin rotor helicopters like the Chinook. These have no tail rotor but keep the body stable by having one main rotor spinning clockwise and the other spinning anti-clockwise … the overall effect being to create lift without the helicopter body spinning out of control. Multiply this by two and you have the quadcopter. In this case, to keep the rotational forces in balance, two rotors spin clockwise and two spin anti-clockwise. Generally this is configured as in the diagram below with the arrow being the direction of forward flight:

So, adding the last piece of information to what I learned earlier about swapping the outer wires on the ESC … motors 1 & 4 are wired one way and motors 2 & 3 have the outer wires swapped over … simples! I later found out that you can wire all the motors the same and then program the ESC’s to rotate the motor whichever way you see fit. I preferred to have the motors rotating correctly without any fudging via software so I made sure the wiring was completed correctly in the first place.

Step one was to feed the motor wires through the rotor arm, slide some heat shrink tubing over the ends then solder the wires to the ESC.

Then the heat shrink was slid over the soldered joints and shrunk into place using a hot air gun.

Finally a small pad of self adhesive foam was stuck to the back of the ESC and it was loosely cable tied to the rotor arm to allow some resilience to the inevitable vibration that a spinning rotor causes. The power and control wires were fed along the arm ready to be attached to the FC.

Et voila, all four rotor arms ready to be attached to the main central chassis and four motor/ESC combinations ready to be connected to the FC.

Video Tease

Those who follow me on Twitter have been warned to keep their eyes open for a little ‘video tease’ being posted … and this is that very tease!

As you may or may not be aware, I’m pretty new to this blog/vlog malarky and I’m still learning the technicalities. A few nights ago I hooked up the quadcopter to my laptop and used Betaflight software to see if I could spin up the motors …

What? I hear you ask. How can you be testing motors and things when you haven’t even started building it? Where are all the posts? Well, I have been building it, and taking photos, but I’ve just not had the chance to put those images into some posts and bring you up to date. I’d also been struggling to source the radio control receiver that I need and things had ground to a bit of a halt. Hence me deciding to have a little play controlling the quadcopter from my laptop to keep those creative juices flowing.

… Anyway, I took a little video with my mobile phone and thought there must be a better way to do this. Maybe a screen capture of the software with a video of the motor spinning overlaid as a PiP (Picture in Picture) video. So I did some Googling for free software, downloaded a few candidate packages and did a little testing. Once I’d found the most suitable for the job I borrowed my work webcam (much better definition than my personal one) and knocked up a little video. A quick detour to setup a vimeo basic account to host the video and Bob’s your Uncle!

ATX Power Supply

It’s been a little while since I posted anything about the quadcopter so time to put that right … kind of. Although not a physical part of the quadcopter this is nonetheless a vital piece of kit, for without it I’d have no way to charge the battery that powers the quadcopter.

The eagle eyed amongst you might have spotted the Lipo (Lithium Polymer … nothing to do with suction!) battery charger in amongst the goodies from Banggood …

Lipo charger

What you wouldn’t have seen is the power supply that it needs to charge the batteries … because it doesn’t come with one! A quick look at the specifications told me that the unit accepts a DC input from 11 – 18 volts and anyone with a passing knowledge of PC internals will know that an ATX power supply unit (PSU) has a very useful range of output voltages; 3.3V, 5V +12V & -12V. A little bit of poking around and I found a power supply from an old Dell PC with, amongst other outputs, +12V rated at 17A and 5V rated at 13A … sorted! The 12V is perfect for powering the charger and the 5V is great for providing power suitable for USB charging circuits (saves messing about with multiple mains USB chargers).

It’s a pretty straight forward process to remove the PSU from the PC and modify it to work as a basic bench power supply, there are hundreds if not thousands of write-ups across the the web as this search on Instructables shows … so I’m just going to focus on how I carried out the conversion.










Sandstone Trail Part III

And so to the final leg of my Sandstone Trail walk, from the Bickerton Poacher (between Bulkeley and Bickerton) down to Whitchurch. A distance of roughly 12 miles … though it felt a lot longer!

I’ve read that the Trail has been extended in the recent past so that it ends at a more convenient location with easier access to transport … that location being Whitchurch. If I’m honest I’d say it feels like it’s been tacked on, as the scenery is not a patch on what came before and walking 3 miles along the Llangollen canal seems like whoever added the extension became bored and went for the easy option. That being said, it was a wonderful walk and a great experience … I’m very pleased I took the plunge!